Prusa mk4 idler screw replacement

Prusa mk4 idler screw replacement. ⬢ On the bottom side, leave a slack on the Prusa writes The next-gen extruder (Nextruder) and 32-bit connected platform provide many quality-of-life improvements like remote printing, quick-swap nozzles, and customizable UI with a one-click printing option. These are set to the optimal position at the factory. Turn the bottom screw on the end clockwise ( bottom blue arrow ). In the mean time, they instructed the following procedure: On both sides, loosen the 2 screws holding the trapezoidal nut (picture 1), the 4 screws holding the Z-motor (picture 2), and the 2 screws holding the Z-top (picture 3). ⬢ Place the X-axis on the motor as shown in the picture. 5mm Allen key. The screw must protrude from the "front" side of the part. For a regular maintenance it is enough to apply the lubricant on the smooth rods. The adjustment was slight - just a little bit looser or tighter, equally on both screws. Full system refresh Original Prusa i3; Gearbox alignment (MK4) Idler screw tension; Live adjust Z; Mesh bed leveling; MMU2S Setup and Inspection; Multi-tool manual calibration (XL) Selftest (SL1) Selftest failed (MINI/MINI+) Selftest failed (MK2/S, MK2. Worldwide, the 1. The most important is, we need to release the cable bundle. 9) How to replace a hotend assembly (MK4 / MK3. I go into Sensor info>Filament sensor. See screenshot, these settings/changes worked for me on the SainSmart TPU profile that comes with PrusaSlicer. ⬢ Make sure there is no large gap between the Z plate bottom and the plastic part. 75 mm MK2. On the Eshop by Prusa Research a. There is nothing more complicated to be done. Step 5 Extruder-body assembly. If you plan to print the whole kit, print this part 4x. Prusa MK4, Prusa XL), filaments (especially our in-house made Prusament), resins, and other accessories for 3D printing. I have a Prusa Mini which is still pretty new (only a couple kg printed on it). The shaft must engage into the bearing in the Idler. This guide is valid for all the Original Prusa i3 printers, i. 5 mm Allen key, release the spring-tensioned idler-screw (s) completely and open the idler door. Rather than sanding the seam down, it seems like its an opportunity to figure out some of the slicer settings. Jun 7, 2023 · I had infrequent clicking when I first assembled my MK4, but none since I experimented with the idler screws when trying to print TPU. In my testing it heavily reduces the issue but does not completely eliminate it. Ensure correct alignment of the nuts using the Allen key. ⬢ At the same time, push the hotend cable behind the heatsink fan up to the electronics. The inspection and maintenance of its various components should be done every couple of hundred hours of print-time. It brings plenty of new features like a perfect smooth first layer thanks to the Loadcell sensor (no manual adjustments needed). Idler Body Assembly, 5. ⬢ Hold the Idler in place with your hand and keep pushing it to the left side. The length depends on your belt and the tension you want Step 25 Attaching the spacers. This calibration is also recommended after a nozzle crash, or if a custom nozzle is in use. Slowly drag/feed the filament upwards, bit by bit, through the top of the extruder body, until it is completely removed from the PTFE-tube. 02 in) below the edge of the hole, on both sides of the idler body, and follow these steps: Step 12 Inserting the hotend. First Layer Calibration (i3) The First Layer Calibration is used to calibrate the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. Wipe-tower (Purge-tower) 3D printers mainly use two different diameters (thickness) of filament: 2. 15QUALITY, 20% infill. 4 print settings. Make sure to follow the manual for your Prusa MK4 Heater Cartridge (Hotend Heater) Includes: Heater (1 pcs)M3x4 grub screw (2 pcs) Specifications:Voltage: 24VWattage: 40WLead Length: 120 mm Fits: Prusa MK4 To replace this part, please consult the Prusa Assembly Manuals Follow the guide How to replace a heatsink (MINI/MINI+) backward from Step 10 to reassemble the print head. If too loose the pulley will not be able to "grab" the filament, while if it is too tight the extruder motor can overexert itself and even start grinding the Eshop by Prusa Research a. 4mm brass nozzle, for 1. It is 1 on the Original Prusa MK3S & MK3S+ (left picture) and two on the Original Prusa MK3 (right picture). If you get this error, check the following items: Verify there is no debris around the Idler and that it can move freely. PB Select™ Bearing Clips for Prusa MK3S+ Includes: Bearing clip (3 pcs)Screws (6 pcs)Nyloc Nuts (6 pcs) Fits: MK3S+ To replace this part, please consult the Prusa Assembly Manuals. ⬢ Connect the fan cable into the corresponding connector on the Loveboard. DON'T use any screw to secure the Adapter-printer-mmu2. Jul 29, 2023 · I also had this problem fairly severely with my self assembled kit MK4. As I did not wanted to completely unmount the Y axis to replace it, I designed a replacement one, also able to tension the belt. Once it has reached 270 °C push the PLA filament in until it starts pouring out of the nozzle. Eshop by Prusa Research a. Note that after removing the rear cover, the extruder isn’t held to I broke my Y idler on prusa i3 (too much pressure on screws). 5S) Selftest failed (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+) Selftest Failed (MK4) Temperature Calibration Place the back plate back on, secure the screws, starting with the center one for alignment, then put on new zip-ties. I've been messing with the idler screw quite a bit trying to fix underextrusion problems with various different filaments. The Idler Nut keeps the Idler, the part that includes the two driven gears, in place. Loosen the two screws on the side of the idler-holder ( purple arrows) by turning them counterclockwise. It goes right in as far as the copper section - on the needle- with no problem. Out of stock. There is a rim (smaller diameter of the hole). 5 mm Allen keys. Pulley Body Step 15 Placing the heatbreak back in. Adjust the M3nEs nuts so they line up with the grooves on the bottom of the PSU's case. On older printers cut the zip tie. See the protrusion, it must fit into the groove. 9) Using the printer > Printer maintenance. Make sure none of the cables gets pinched. Step 10 Installing the Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter. ⬢ Attach the heatbed-cable-cover-top onto the junction and secure it with two M3x10 screws. 11 comments. MK3 MK2. MK3S+, MK3s, MK3, MK2. Method 2: Pull out filament with pliers. ⬢ Push it down and check its upper surface is aligned with the extruder. Using a Prusa Mini with a Revo hot end, . ⬢ Insert the M3x40 screw into the hole in the MINI-Z-bottom. Finally, I printed parts idler-lever-A-R2. 5; Prusa I3 MK2; All need two M4 screws. Aug 11, 2023 · Prusa Support said they were aware of the issue and working on a proper guide for resolving it. ⬢ Look at the back of the extruder. Go to LCD Menu -> Control -> Temperature -> Nozzle Temperature and set the temperature to 270 °C. I made 3 versions: Prusa I3 reworked; Prusa I3 reworked 1. This metal piece also holds the gears, extruder, and the idler screws. 6mm, and hardened steel nozzles to print abrasive filaments. 0 Jan 4, 2024 · 4 x M3x16 screw; 4 x M3x30 screw It would also be an advantage if you have an assortment of M3 replacement screws in stock. ⬢ Using M3x10 screw fix the Y-belt-holder to the Y-carriage. The rubber inside nuts must be facing up. Please open idler and remove filament manually. UV LEDs. Tightening and loosening the bolts did not have an effect. Jun 12, 2023 · Original Prusa MK4 Handbook - all you need to know about 3D Assemble the X motor end and x end like this, using m3x30 screws, m3 nuts and m3 washers. ⬢ Using an Allen key release the M3x40 screw and open the door. Keeping the printer clean. But guess what. No need to remove them. Belt tensioner slim. stl, idler-nut-R2. MMU2S Disassembly (UPG), 3. ⬢ Use your other hand to loosen the two thumb screws. On the opposite side of the Y-carriage is the nyloc nut on each screw. The MK4 is the latest edition of our flagship 3D printing workhorse. Over-tightening can also cause the pulleys to be "choked" by the filament. Jun 27, 2023 · Like my predecessor, I had problems with filament twisting. If it is too tight, it will disable the Idler from moving freely. 5S, MK2. ⬢ Slide the xBuddy board towards the front of the printer to detach the connectors at the back of the box. Do not tighten it completely. Again, MK4 behaves like there's filament when there isn't any. Ensure the entire thread is screwed in. Always make sure that the parts of the printer are clean. The aim is to adjust the nozzle height until the Calibration > Basic calibration. Do not use any extra force! Step 6 Removing the extruder. ⬢ Screw the extruder screws into the extruder body using the 2. Step 9 Removing the xBuddy board. Make sure the gear on the extruder motor shaft is tightened by its grub screw against the flat part of the motor axis. 75 mm. Aug 25, 2023 · The Original Prusa MK4 is built with everyday users in mind. Nov 26, 2023 · I've upgraded my MK3+ to an MK4. Add a comment. The X-Holder part is an assembly aid and, according to Prusa, is only needed once. 5, MK2S, and Plus 1. Selector Assembly, 6. ⬢ From the opposite side, insert the M3x10 screw into the X-carriage-back. Includes: Nozzle (1 pcs) Fits: MK4. Re-tighten the screws on the x-motor, securing it. 75mm filament. May 25, 2023 · Remove the print, cut the filament again. ⬢ Grasp the heaterblock with the wrench 13-16. The message on your LCD saying Please open idler and remove filament manually shows up when the extruder motor does not succeed to remove the filament from the hotend/extruder. Plastic parts used on our 3D printers are printed by the same very machines, holding on to the original idea of the RepRap project. Step 43 Assembling the Z-axis. MK4/MK3. ⬢ Secure the nut using an M3x10 screw. You can check the number of printing hours from your printer in the LCD menu - Statistics. 5S) for more information regarding the MK2. However, the existing idler would allow only 1-2mm of range for tensioning (I'm thinking about future, if the belt gets significantly looser). Again, MK4 continues to behave like nothing's wrong when clearly filament has run out and there's nothing coming out of the nozzle. MK3. Jul 8, 2023 · RE: MK4 and Flex (TPU) Avoid sudden changes in your printing speed. The filament can get stuck on geometry on the Jan 15, 2022 · Prusa Knowledge Base | Idler screw tension (prusa3d. With the nozzle hot I was able to pull it out by opening the idler window and pushing against the tiny bit of filament sticking out against the extruder drive gear and backing it up. MMU2S Buffer Disassembly (UPG), 4. Idler screw will not unscrew. ⬢ Using the 7mm cutout in the universal wrench, tighten the nozzle against the heaterblock. Basically, the adjustment done during assembly is all that's required. com) The idler screw should be about flush to protruding 0. 1. Feb 22, 2024 · 1 x Belt Idler . ⬢ Release and remove both screws and remove the Front print fan. ⬢ Locate the hole in the heatsink from the bottom of the extruder and insert the hotend into the heatsink. Length of the springs should be circa 13 mm when tightened. Insert the Belt, Idler & secure it with the axis. 5mm Allen key, just for the screws to be kept in place. Remove the M3x40 screw in the top right corner. ⬢ Turn the idler to the other side and insert the last M3nN nyloc nut. This modified Prusa MK3S extruder idler is used to replace the standard Bondtech idler gear with two drawn cup needle bearings to reduce Issue #602. I'm using a MK3s+ with a clean textured plate. 2. Step 7 Fan removal. 5 MK2. Carefully take out the X-cover-back. 5 -1 mm with the plastic part when the filament is not loaded. ⬢ Slide the PSU down onto the screws. The tips of the screws must be aligned with the front surface of the Idler Nut. They literally sell it as such. ⬢ Push the hotend assembly all the way into the heatsink. ⬢ Fix the fan in place using two M3x6 screws. ⬢ First pair of bearings should be in line with the top surface on both X-ends. Place the 624 bearing into the idler, and both into the idler holder using a m4x30 screw with nylon lock nut. Feb 2, 2021 · 1. While hotend is heated to 280° C, firmly grab the filament with the needle-nose pliers that came with the printer. Make sure the nut is all the way in. 5. It is a printed part that takes quite a large load, and in my opinion, should be a metal part instead. You can use a brush, a small broom, or a vacuum to remove debris. On the mk4 page so it’s clearly meant to be a quick swap nozzle. On removing the old parts I did notice that the set screw seemed a bit loose so maybe that was the cause of the problem rather than the printed parts. Verify is the Idler Coupler is attached properly. 9) How to replace the xBuddy board (MK4/MK3. ⬢ Place the Z motor right (long cable) next to the right Z-bottom. In case of an intervention on that component, it will be necessary to adjust the idler tension screws to their optimal position: the tips of the screws must be aligned Step 8 Finishing the fan installation. Plus 1. Loading filament is a breeze, and we've broken down the whole process to show you just how effor TPU can sometimes print unreliably at low temps, or have a bad surface temperature at high temps. 75mm version is more common. In case of an intervention on that component, it will be necessary to adjust the idler tension screws to their optimal position: the tips of the screws must be aligned Step 4 Removing the rear cover. Different sizes and types are available, e. Please do not panic, this can be solved very quickly and you do not need to abort the print. Best set all the speeds to the same value. Reset the printer, and try again. ⬢ Remove the top part of the extruder cable cover. ⬢ Hold the heaterblock in your hand and tighten the Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter by the universal wrench. ⬢ From the opposite side of the heaterblock, screw in the V6 nozzle. This will bring the X arm up, correcting a slight skew in this direction. stl and 2x idler-swivel-R2. Make sure to follow the manual for Step 13 Removing the bearings (new design) ⬢ Remove the two screws from the bearing clip. 5 MK2S MMU2S CW1 SL1 SL1S CW1S MK2 MMU2 MMU1 MK4 XL MK3. Tighten the screw just slightly, later on we need to add the SuperPINDA sensor. 6mm nozzle profile (Input Shaping). Insert M3x10 screws into them. Start by getting out your 1,5 mm and 2. Remove the back cover. The MMU2S extruder has one screw, but some additional parts. Step 16 Preparing Y-belt-idler (part 2) ⬢ Take the Y-belt-idler and insert two M3nN nyloc nuts from the top. Jun 15, 2023 · Test procedure: Started with Prusa-supplied NinjaTek Cheetah TPU @MK4 profile, and the Prusa-supplied 0. ⬢ Insert the M3x18 screws and tighten them so that their positions are at the back of the oval hole like in the picture. There should be approximately a 2 mm gap between the Step 6 Removing the hotend. This means that the entire path of the filament through the Nextruder is all-metal, no PTFE tubes anywhere. 9 MMU3 MK3. e. There should be approximately a 2 mm gap between the Step 2 Adapter-mmu2-assembly. Nov 28, 2023 · Instead, I decided to use the idler for adjusting belt tension. Leave the other two screws holding the hotend fan in place. Note that the fan-shroud might fall off. Secure the idler door by having the head of the idler screw, How to replace the Prusa Nozzle (MK4/MK3. It will lubricate the inner surface of the linear bearings. Tighten the screw and ensure the printed part is parallel with the "axis" between the Y-motor and Y-belt-idler. ⬢ Take the PSU and place it above the screws. Detail. The only part that is replaced is the idler gear and the needle bearings inside. Tags xl idler lever mk4 nextruder + More Often when the MMU2S jams, you have to open the idler up by turning the two spring wrapped screws that hold the idler top to the idler body, then tilt the top back about 90 degrees. ⬢ Remove the five M3x6 screws holding the xBuddy board. The upcoming steps will take you through the process of cleaning and lubricating all smooth rods on the X, Y and Z axes. ⬢ Carefully lay the extruder on the heatbed and push the cables through the X-axis. ⬢ Take the M3nS nut and insert it in the Extruder-body. It should hold inside the Extruder-body by itself. Instead, I decided to use the idler for adjusting belt tension. To replace the part/s, please consult our Assembly Manuals. In the middle of the front plate of the heat bed assembly (purple arrows), you will find two screws that will adjust the tension of the Y Step 6 Extruder surgery. Step 6 Installing the Z motors. Hold the nut in a 5. 25mm or 0. Please see Checking/re-aligning the Bondtech gear (MK3S/MK2. 5 mm Allen key as shown in the picture. All of our Original Prusa FFF-printers are configured for 1. PSA For MK4 owners: Print spares of these idler parts right now. 5/S and MK3/S/+ or this article for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+. Print settings: layer 0. There should be approximately a 2 mm gap between the Step 2 Releasing the cable bundle. 9) How to replace a hotend thermistor (MK4/MK3. If you tilt the top back too fast, those two spring-wrapped screws go flying out of the idler and bounce away. Oct 23, 2023 · The modified lever is a drop-in replacement that shouldn't cause any issues but may resolve issues with poor grip on the filament. Dirty extruder gears Step 12 Inserting the hotend. The next-gen extruder (Nextruder) and 32-bit connected platform How to replace Loveboard (MK4) How to replace the silver PSU with the black PSU; How to replace a hotend heater (MK4/MK3. The extruder includes two idler tension screws, to set the correct distance between the drive gear and the two driven gears. T here is no need to remove them completely, a few turns are enough. Loosen the three indicated screws covering the X-carriage. For the new generation of printers, Prusa is using special nozzles with an all-metal filament guide. Heating up the nozzle to a higher temperature - as it suggests in the handbook. ⬢ Prepare the motor for X-axis with an assembled pulley. I open the idler door. 9 MK4. All other parts are reused. Step 14 Assembling the heatbed-cable-cover-top. ⬢ At the same time push the hotend cables behind the heatsink out of the extruder. ⬢ Use the hole on the left, see the picture. 0. We're selling Original Prusa 3D printers (incl. 5 mm (0. Especially if using an enclosure! TLDR: Enclosure temps of 45-50C were enough for these two assemblies to flex to the point where filament would no longer be held in place tight enough to feed through the Nextruder at all. We prepared a specific test GCode for the dual-head . Step 15 Placing the screws. Slide the sleeve as far towards the heatbed as possible. ⬢ Slide out the hotend assembly from the heatsink. ⬢ Insert LM8UU linear bearings into the printed parts (X-end-motor and X-end-idler) as shown in the picture. ⬢ Remove the bearing clip with the bearing from the Y-carriage. ⬢ Push each motor through the Z-bottom and secure it with four M3x10 screws. 9/MK3. ⬢ From the side with cables, screw the Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter to the heaterblock. Visible 52 of 52 items. If the idler springs are over-tightened, it may cause the idler motor to skip. The multi-tool manual calibration for the multi-tool versions of the Original Prusa XL can be done to ensure that the Tool Offset Calibration worked correctly and to fine-tune the offset for each tool. If you want to print replacement parts, upgrades, have your printer in a different color, or make your own modifications it is all available online. XL. 5, MK2. Boosted the temp to 248, turned off retraction, and boosted MVS to 10. ⬢ To finish the replacement process jump to Reassembly of the hotend. Variable layer height. ⬢ Release and remove all screws holding the Hotend fan on the side. During the first service after 200h, I figured out, that a lot of screws needed tightening. ⬢ Return to the X-carriage: ⬢ Remove the black nylon. 5mm wrench or pliers so that it does not rotate when loosened. ⬢ Attach the hex spacer on the M3x10 screw and tighten the screw. ) All properties remain the same the color regardless. After replacing these new parts, the filament stopped twisting. Insert the front part into the back plate and secure it with the long screw. 30mm Draft @MK4 0. It is alright to tighten the screws with higher force, we need to induce pressure on the idler. Adjusting the Y-belt Slight adjustments. 6mm nozzle, and Bondtech extruder. Using the 2. Open the Idler Swivel. ⬢ Remove the fan. Step 3 X-axis: inserting linear bearings. 9) How to replace a print fan (MK4 / MK3. ⬢ Wrap the end of the cable bundle together with the nylon filament in the textile sleeve. ⬢ Insert one M3x12 screw in the Z plate and tighten it. ⬢ On the bottom side, leave a slack on the The first time this happened, the filament break is right at the top of the nozzle's filament guide. print all required files. ⬢ Release the three screws holding the back cover. stl. Attention, y-rod-holder is present 4 times in the printer. ⬢ Insert two M3n nuts to the X-carriage-back. Stop heating by pressing Cooldown in the LCD Menu -> Control -> Temperature -> Cooldown All-metal high-precision nozzle for the Nextruder combines both nozzle and heatbreak. Large adjustments MK3. Step 12 X-axis: assembling the motor. ⬢ Make sure all three nuts are all the way in. In my case the solution was replacing idler-lever-A & B, the idler nut and idler swivel. The Original Prusa FFF printers and upgrades use a screw(s) with a spring(s) to provide tension between the filament and the filament pulley. 5S MK3 MK3S MMU1 MMU2S MK2S MK3S+ MMU3 MK3. ⬢ Insert the 5x16 shaft into the opening on the left side of the idler body and push it in all the way through. The Olsson Ruby. Use the screw pulling technique. All parts required for the conversion are in the file PrusaMk3ToMK4_Mod72. ⬢ Grasp the hotend with your hand. g. 5) Apr 16, 2023 · It appears that the nozzle goes into the heater, then slides into a metal piece, and then clamped on with the thumbscrews. Jan 17, 2024 · 1 x Belt Idler . stl, idler-lever-B-R2. Prusa I3 Build manual – v1. All printable parts for your Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ Sorted by kit assembly manual chapters. It combines the reliability and safety features of its predecessors with high-speed performance enabled by Input Shaper support. I've changed the Prusa's Y idler by extending holes to be able to use longer screws. Inserting the small needle - that came with the printer- into the end of the nozzle. ⬢ Lift the xBuddy board on the right side to loosen the sticky thermal pads below that might hold it in place. Contrary to popular belief, in my experience, you can (and should) tighten the bolt more than just flush to the wall/nut as stated in the Prusa KB. Stock Prusa . ⬢ Release and remove the M3x20 (M3x18) screw from the hotend fan. $90. Turn them only 3-4 times by using a 2. 190. DON'T TRY TO PUSH the bearings from the other side. Replace the 20 mm axis with a 17 mm one. , company founded by Josef Prusa, one of the RepRap core developers. 3. Replace the M3 x 30 mm screw with a 25 mm screw. Press the shaft all the way in using the 2. For my MK3 Kit I've bought a torque wrench and applied 0,8 to 1,1 Nm. Assembly sinstructions: Gather all parts :) Insert the 3 M3 nuts into the back plate. My last day long MMU print was tightened down so you can see 6 or 7 threads past the nut. ⬢ The motor cables must guide under the frame to the PSU (right) and xBuddy Box (left). Adjust the tension of the belt following the method above. We need to split the extruder in order to replace the hotend PTFE tube. ⬢ Screw the long thread of the heatbreak (with the paste) into the heatsink. It is important to have this tension correct. ⬢ Place the Z motor left (short cable) next to the left Z-bottom. Step 10 Installing the Prusa Nozzle. The clicking I had sounded exactly like the clicking the MK3 makes when the idler screw is too loose or too tight. The standard nozzle for an Original Prusa FFF printer is a 0. Since I don't have an MK4, and can't find anything that shows this piece on its own, or even without the heatsink fan The issue is usually mechanical. Remove the support from the x end. ⬢ Screw the nozzle all the way into the heaterblock until the nozzle touches the heaterblock surface. ⬢ Cut off the two zip-ties holding the extruder cable cover. Adjust it tighter if needed. ⬢ Secure the Z plate bottom with two M3x20 screws. Original Prusa XL. ⬢ Cover the extruder with the Loveboard cover on top. On the MK4 conversion I switched to hand tightening, after the Y-Axis-Motorholder made some cracking noise (it is still okay) on installation. MK3S+ and MK3S+ MMU2S extruders are very similar, just a few parts will be changed. The Original Prusa MK4 and the Original Prusa XL have two idler screws, that are inserted into the Idler Nut. Secure the idler-holder again by turning the screws on the side clockwise. ⬢ Release both M3 screws. 9) How to replace a hotend fan (MK4 / MK3. Jul 14, 2021 · (@elliot-2) Active Member. 85 mm (commonly called 3 mm) and 1. ⬢ Carefully insert the Front print fan in the X-axis belt. Sliced a 60x60 square with 5 solid bottom layers, to get some sustained solid infill. However, now, the break is maybe 5-8mm down into the guide. You can use the file list and folder structure here to prepare parts in the same order as you will need them according to the guide. Step 14 Idler center shaft assembly. ⬢ After you screw the heatbreak in, clean the excess paste on the surface of the heatsink. Step 36 Y-axis: Assembling the belt. 9/XL. ⬢ Before removing the last screw, hold the extruder as it will fall down. Step 12 Inserting the hotend. Find the range that works! 225 C nozzle, 50 C bed, disabling retraction, changing the max speed to 25mm/s while loosening the idler works great for me. Release the idler tension screws slightly. The rubber inside the nut must be facing towards you. Original Prusa MK4. Introduction, 2. The single thing that makes of breaks a print: How tight the idler door is. ⬢ Release two M3x10 screws and remove the extruder-cable-clip. s. Hey all, Just finished building my MK4 yesterday, 2 prints in, and the idler lock already broke. Step 2 Cleaning and lubricating all the axes. After several hours of printing, various kinds of debris may start to accumulate around the printer parts or under the heatbed - pieces of filament, dust, scraps, broken supports, etc. TPU parts tend to be smallish, so speed concerns should not be such a big issue. You can leave the screws inside the printed part. 9 / MK4. ⬢ Remove the belt and keep it for later. ⬢ Insert the Adapter-printer into the hole in the extruder-body. This product includes: IR filament sensor (1 pcs) The IR filament sensor PCB color may vary (Red, Black, etc. This can be replaced with virtually any E3D-compatible nozzle, for 1. To find the perfect tension, tighten the screw to about 0. Hi all, I'm having significant difficulty with my extruder idler screw. 3mf. xx os eg sm bs xi ab dq bn yo